Friday, December 9, 2016

My previous Antarctic experience

As I am getting ready to board my first plane of my epic journey, I wanted to share this photo collage:


Photo entitled "working off airplane, 1960" from my grandfather's archives and me hanging from one of an AWS in West Antarctica 2013.

As some of my readers probably know - I have deployed to Antarctica before. I worked with the University of Wisconsin Antarctic Automated Weather Station (AWS) program. It is a unique program maintaining a network of AWSs all over West Antarctica starting from 1980. These data is all available to the public (in real-time) from the website I linked to above.

I deployed with the United State's Antarctic Program, flying to McMurdo station and visiting West Antarctic Ice Station seasonal camp. My work included frequent flights on Twin otter planes (as pictured above) and helicopters to visit AWS locations and bring stations to live, but replacing broken equipment, replacing batteries and digging buried station out of the snow. I remember commenting to friends, that a shovel was the most important tool I used - nothing basically changed in Antarctic research since 1960.

Since I still have internet - I am happy to share a few pictures from my trip to Antarctica in during the 2012-2013 summer season. I also wrote a blog from McMurdo:



This is me at the southernmost site I visited


My best selfie to date


Very excited to be in a helicopter

Thursday, December 8, 2016

Stormy seas of 1959

While I am getting myself and my stuff ready and packed - I thought I'd share a note from my grandfather's journal. While  my ship Akademik Tryoshnikov is following the route of Ob',  I'm skipping the Atlantic leg of our journey (Leg0). I will be joining in Cape Town - our departure is scheduled for December the 20th and I will arrive in South Afrcia a few days early to explore, deal with science cargo loading and buy last-minute necessities. I guess this is one of luxuries I get to enjoy doing research 50+ years later. I get to fly to my scientific destination, rather than taking a long trip on an icebreaker across the equator (and I can tell you it gets terribly hot inside). Oh and one more thing, the Bay of Biscay gets quite stormy during this time of the year. 

Enjoy!
Russian, followed by English translation:

20 ноября 1959
Атлантика
Третьи сутки шторм. Сперва это было даже забавно, особенно днём, потом стало надоедать, теперь опротивело вконец. Описывать штормовое море – занятие хитрое, пожалуй, не для моего скромного пера. Да, собственно говоря, это вероятно даже и не шторм, а просто качка. Но качка грандиозная. Во всяком случае бывалые экспедиционные зубры, идущие в Антарктиду во второй, и даже в третий раз, такой качки не припоминают. Крен судна временами достигал 35 и более градусов. Я раньше никогда не мог бы себе представить, что это такое. Описать трудно. Всё летит со своих мест, мечется и гремит. Забавный случай был вчера со мной в кают-компании во время чая. От внезапного толчка я вместе с креслом вылетел через голову назад сквозь занавеску в музыкальный салон, где спокойно и доел свой хлеб с маслом, сожалею о чае, оставленном в кают-компании, куда постеснялся вернуться. Здорово качает! Прием пищи – совершенно акробатический номер во время качки. В отдельные моменты со столов летят тарелки, бачки с супом, хлебницы и все прочее.

Работать трудно, если не сказать, что вовсе невозможно. Временами охватывает апатия, не хочется ничего делать. До того надоедает эта качка. Вылезаешь тогда на верхней мостик, оттуда здорово видно море – океан. Носятся близ судна сумасшедшие буревестники (я все удивлялся, что заставляет их в такую гнусную погоду метаться в открытом море). Пару раз встречали уже небольшие стада дельфинов, весело игравших под самым носом корабля. До чего же забавные существа! Но в общем, беспокойное море – штука не из приятных. После долгой качки голова какая-то тяжелая как после пьянки, мысли страшно туго вылазят и даже язык не ворочается. Говорят, что завтра это кончится.

November 20, 1959
Atlantic ocean
We have been in a storm for the third day in a row. It was even entertaining at first, especially during the day; then it was boring and now it became really annoying. It is really tricky to describe the stormy seas, and I am not much of a writer for that. Plus, it might not even be a big storm, it just been really rocky on the ship lately. I mean horrendously rocky. Even the old-timers going to Antarctica for the second or even for the third time say they don’t remember being rocked that hard. The ship had leaned more than 35 degrees! I could have not imagined how it feels before experiencing it.  Hard to explain. Everything is flying around, moving and making noises. There was a funny episode at the mess yesterday during tea. I was sitting at the table when suddenly I get knocked over together with my chair and flipping around my head I end up in the room next to the mess - music hall. There was only a curtain between the two rooms, so I did not fly through the wall. Now I am sitting in the music hall and finishing my sandwich. Too bad my tea was left in the mess room and I was too shy to go back there after my dramatic exit. It is really rocky. Each meal reminds me of an acrobatic stunt during the storm. At every moment plates, big soup bowls and bread bowls may fly off the table. 

It is also really hard to work, if not to say impossible. Sometimes apathy overtakes and I don't want to do anything at all. So annoyed at this storm. When that happens, I go to the upper bridge - the view of the sea is amazing. Crazy storm petrels are circling around the ship (I am puzzled what makes them fly over the open sea in such a nasty weather). A few times I saw a school of dolphins merely jumping near the bow of the ship. What a funny creatures they are.  But all in all - stormy sea is not pleasant. After rocking for a while your head feels heavy, as if you have a hangover; it is really hard to think and even moving the tongue is hard.  The storm should be over tomorrow.



A note from Masha in 2016:
To tell you the truth I have not experienced stormy seas like THAT yet, but the feelings that he describes is similar to what I felt during my first ever storm back in 2005. Albeit the storm I lived through was short. We will see what Indian, Pacific and Southern Oceans have in store for me :) .

Tuesday, December 6, 2016

Syncing my fb account with new posts

I'm trying to figure out if I can automatically sync my new blog entries to my facebook account. So this is a test post, but here's a picture of me trying on a mustang suit. Just to see how fb deals with pictures in my posts:

Running around and trying to be more prepared

Hello,

I am in the middle of running around, getting ready to leave for more than three months. It is amazing to realize how much we rely on always staying connected nowadays. Always finding manuals, answers to error messages on various equipment, writing emails and messages to the loved ones and receiving their supportive answers. And streaming, don't forget all the streaming we do. I realized a few weeks ago that I don't have any music/movies downloaded anymore, I subscribe to Netflix, Amazon, Spotify, Pandora and various podcasts. All of it requires internet. I am surrounded by the web!

First of all, I want to say the biggest THANK YOU to my friends, who shared/downloaded their music and movies for me. Thanks to all of you, I now have a small music and movie library that will keep me going during my downtime on the ship. I mean I'm not sure how much downtime I will have, but it is good to be prepared. And also a big THANK YOU to those who helped me deal with multiple software issues. I really appreciate your time!

Secondly, I am amazed at the amount of information I downloaded over the last few weeks. Various manuals for equipment/procedures on board; many-many libraries for Python (and I'm sure I forgot a lot and will suffer because of that ;). Datasets. Again, hard to predict how much time I will have to write meaningful code and process data, but I need to think in advance and be prepared. Related to this notion of being prepared and learning about equipment failure the hard way, I am buying spare cables, connectors and everything to take on the ship with me. Things break. Somehow this concept is very hard for me to process in my normal life, so the Universe has been sending me hints in advance. First, my laptop died while I was in Germany. Then my car died as I was planing to drive to the office upon my return. So things break - I accept it now. And there's no Amazon prime to the rescue. All I can do is to prepare as much as I can now and to learn to be creative/ to live without this piece of equipment while on the ship.

My post is very indicative of what my life is right now - I'm constantly making lists, prioritizing tasks and trying to squeeze too many things into an hour, a day, a week. And e-mails! I'm writing and replying to way too many e-mails. I'm really glad that I started reading my grandfather's journal, I can totally relate to the atmosphere he describes, even though he did not know about e-mails, cell-phones and such. Here's a quote from his first entry:

Борт дизель электрохода "Обь". 
16 ноября 1959г. 
Северное море 
Вряд ли стоит теперь восстанавливать в памяти суматошную и безалаберную атмосферу подготовки к отъезду в экспедицию,в которую мы попали сразу по приезду в Ленинград. От всего этого промежутка времени (начиная с 30 октября) осталось тяжелое впечатление бессмысленной неразберихи, нераспорядительности и безответственности начальства. Только большое желание и добрый характер подавляющего большинства участников экспедиции так называемый "трудовой энтузиазм" позволили все это преодолеть.

Wish me luck and "трудовой энтузиазм"
Masha

PS
Let me know if google ca
n handle non-translated quotes...

Saturday, December 3, 2016

Antarctic journey through generations

One of my inspirations for writing a blog about my upcoming adventures comes from my grandfather, Vitaly Borisovich Tsukernik.

Vitaly Tsukernik, born in 1928, was a geophysicist. As such he wintered-over in Antarctica during 1959-1961 as a participant of the fifth Soviet Antarctic Expedition (SAE). He worked as a seismologist in the field, measuring the thickness of Antarctic ice sheet. To give you a little scientific and political context - the world was in the midst of the Cold War, but the scientists at the time managed to achieve one of biggest peace agreements to date. The continent of Antarctica was to be preserved for scientific exploration, rather than nuclear testing. Antarctic treaty was not officially signed yet, but Antarctic exploration began full throttle just as the US and Soviet scientists agreed to preserve the continent in the mid-1950s. The first SAE occurred in 1955-57, my grandfather participated in the fifth expedition.

It was the historic time indeed. The fifth SAE did a traverse from coastal station Mirniy to the interior station Vostok. Back then the existence of under-ice lake at the Vostok station was merely a scientific proposal, made only a few months before my grandfather's traverse. The Vostok station was placed in that particular location by mere luck, the Soviet scientists wanted a station in the continental interior at a "meaningful" location. Since the South Pole station was already claimed by the Americans, the Russians decided to claim the South geomagnetic pole. Nothing wrong with a friendly scientific rivalry on who gets the "coolest" station I guess. While making initial seismic measurements near the Vostok station, the fourth SAE (the one before my grandfather's) started to suspect the existence of liquid water under the massive ice sheet. The measurements my grandfather and his colleagues made developed the theory further, it took years to finally confirm the presence of a lake under the ice.

Vitaly Tsukernik during the fifth Soviet Antarctic Expedition.

Unfortunately, I never met my grandfather. He died young, in 1978 before I was born. Growing up I did not know anything about the historical importance of his scientific expedition. I only knew that way back when my dad was a little boy his dad went to Antarctica for a really long time.

***
Fast forward forty years. In the late 1990s an international team of Russian-American-French scientists finished drilling the Vostok ice core - the deepest ice core at the time, reaching the depth of 3,623 meters. To this date this core remains the longest paleo record of Earth's atmosphere - air bubbles trapped in between the ice crystals in the ice sheet provide evidence of paleo (ancient) atmospheric composition. 

Vostok ice core spanning over 400,000 years.

Fast forward to present day. Russian scientists are still figuring out a way to drill and to collect water samples from the mysterious under-ice lake Vostok. Over the last several years, there were several attempts to collect uncontaminated water/frozen water samples, but no data have been made public yet. Maybe more information will come to light during the life of this blog.

***
Coming back to my grandfather Vitaly, there are a few things I want to mention. Although I never met him, he left behind his letters to the family and his Antarctic diaries. His trip started out very similarly to the ACE expedition - an AARI-owned Russian research vessel left the port of St Petersburg, stopped in Kiel, Germany to load scientific cargo and then sailed to Cape Town, South Africa. As I read my grandfather's journal I am amazed at how little has changed in the scale and near-disaster-attitude of planning a massive Antarctic expedition. At the same time the world is so different. His colleagues and he were not allowed to go on land during the stop in Kiel, Germany. I guess the Soviet party leaders were afraid that scientists might flee. My grandfather's short port stop in South Africa was the only foreign country he ever got to visit. And then there was the vast ice sheet of Antarctica. 

One more amazing thing happened to my grandfather in Antarctica. As part of the scientific and cultural exchange between the USSR and the US, an American geophysicist joined the fifth SAE. This exchange program started as a political gesture to overcome the Cold War appearances. Although it never expanded into the free exchange of scientific knowledge and data (and Soviet science suffered from isolation for years to come), meeting a real American was a very important event in my grandfather's life.

His name was Gilbert Dewart. He knew a little Russian, my grandfather's English was rudimentary, but they became friends and kept in touch after the expedition as much as they could in their reality. It was in Antarctica that my grandfather realized the importance of learning English and made sure that his two sons started early. Arguably, this decision led to my dad meeting my mom and our family moving to the United States many years later.

As I start my journey south, I will try to publish/comment on parts of my grandfather's diary entries. Vitaly was most actively journaling during the long marine stretch, which will be somewhat similar to Leg 1 of the ACE expedition. My grandfather's journal is in Russian, so I might post something in Russian to this blog as well. This is a work in progress, I am not sure how this will play out yet. Pease comment on this post (or email me) if you think it is a worthy idea.

Oh, and one more thing I absolutely need to mention - Gilbert Dewart wrote a book about his experience being an American geophysicist wintering with the Russians in Antarctica. This book is available on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Antarctic-Comrades-American-Russians-Antarctica/dp/0814204902
Read it. It is awesome.


Thursday, December 1, 2016

A few words about our science

This is schematic map of our upcoming expedition. We will be circumnavigating the Southern Ocean, stopping at several sub-Antarctic islands. Our cruise will consist of three legs:

Leg 1: Cape Town, South Africa to Hobart, Australia
Leg 2: Hobart to Punta Arenas, Chile
Leg 3: Punta Arenas to Cape Town



I will be participating in all three legs, which means about three months at sea. I am excited and terrified at the same time. It would be an unforgettable journey for sure. We have rather ambitious scientific objectives to fulfill, I am sure many of them will get somewhat modified and shaped to suite the existing conditions.

Our project for this cruise is interdisciplinary. Here's a short summary of our project on the Swiss Polar Institute website.

My primary science responsibilities for the field data collection will be two-fold:

ATMOSPHERIC SCIENCE
I/we will be collecting meteorological data on the snow particle distribution. We will install several sensors to capture this, plus I will take macro-photos of snow flakes to determine particle distribution and crystal structure. This part of my work I usually entitle "taking pictures of snowflakes".  This line works great at social gatherings, believe me :).

We are also collaborating with other atmospheric scientist measuring weather conditions, collecting precipitation samples and such. In expeditions like that all collected data are usually shared among interested science groups, so that each person can concentrate on maintaining their own instruments and obtaining in situ data of the best quality.

We will also be launching radiosondes collecting information about the vertical profile of the atmosphere. We will do semi-regular launches, but also hope to get several profiles crossing atmospheric river events. My colleague Irina and I identified the first atmospheric river reaching Antarctic continent and we are keen to experience an event like this and gather more data. 


OCEANOGRAPHY 
I/we will be measuring the saltiness of the Southern Ocean. We are primarily interested in the mixed (top) layer, but we will run all the salinity analysis for everyone else's needs as part of our contribution to the scientific effort of the expedition.

On top of that we will be collecting water samples from the mixed (top) layer of the Southern Ocean for isotope analysis back on land.  Upon our return we will analyze these samples in the lab at British Geological Survey (BIG THANKS!) to determine the sources of water, particularly focusing on abnormally fresh water sources. The goal and the title of our project is to determine the sources of recent freshening of the mixed layers of the Southern Ocean.

We will be deploying six SOCCOM floats - unique long-term laboratories autonomously reporting and collecting physical and chemical data from the Southern Ocean. Deploying these floats will be an adventure and I will try to write more about it as it unfolds.

My one sentence response on what else I will be doing on the cruise besides taking pictures of snowflakes is that I will finally "become an oceanographer".


Ok, this is the end of the science update. Here are a few images for everyone to get excited again:

Me by the docked Akademik Tryoshnikov in Bremerhaven.

Irina on the main deck of Tryoshnikov as it is about to leave the port.

The ship is currently sailing from Bremerhaven, Germany to Cape Town. There is a summer school on-board the ship and this part of the journey is called LEG ZERO. I am (well all of us really are) particularly grateful to students and scientists onboard testing our equipment and identifying potential problems. Even though my inbox everyday is filled with disaster emails, it's better to know now and come up with solutions.

Our hard-working students Nastya and Franzi, Irina and I saying the last-good byes in Bremerhaven. 

Wednesday, November 30, 2016

First look at Tryoshnikov

Hello,
I finally figured out the platform for my upcoming blog.
A week ago I went to Bremerhaven, where I saw Akademik Tryoshnikov for the first time:



The weather was pretty gloomy and I have to say it was mostly raining during the week I spent in Bremerhaven.

The ship was much smaller inside than I expected, I have been on a cruise on Akademik Fedorov before and I was amazed how much smaller Akademik Tryohsnikov is. There's no big room - even the mess is quite small and consists of two semi-attached rooms. The lab space is also extremely limited, so we will become really close with all our colleagues during the cruise. But the thing that impressed me the most was the hold(трюм) - as the only access to it was through the vertical ladder from the outside (!):

After some deliberations though our science cargo was put into another hold, which has very steep stairs, but they are covered from rain and have railings. So all in all even the scariest part somehow became less scary.

My colleague Irina and I were busy finding space for our atmospheric equipment, while waiting for the ocean equipment to turn up. At the end of the day we were able to locate and secure all our cargo and find suitable places for the future instrument installation as well as cozy inside space for data loggers.

My friends probably know already how many unfortunate things happened to me in Bremerhaven, with me falling off a bike and my computer dying unexpectedly. But I survived the trip and came out stronger on the other side. The most amazing thing for me in adventures like this are always people I meet and connections I build. I am happy to report that while short and not quite "on board" - Bremerhaven trip was really productive in that regard. I look forward to reuniting with some of these wonderful people in Cape Town in a few weeks.

Till later,
Masha